| | Establishing a successful farmstead shelterbelt requires extensive planning and site preparation. A properly designed belt can provide benefits such as wind shelter, reduced heating costs, reduced snow removal, snow trapping for gardens and dugouts, improved microclimate for gardens, fruit production, wildlife habitat and aesthetic value.
The following are general rules for developing a proper farmstead shelterbelt.
1. Most often shelterbelts should be located at least 150 feet from the center of municipal roads. Greater distances may be required for provincial highways. It is recommended to check with your municipality or highway department on minimum distances for your area.
2. Shelterbelts should be located at least 100 feet from main buildings and driveways, to prevent snow accumulation in these areas.
3. Shelterbelts should be located 50 - 100 feet from dugouts. At this distance, the trees will help trap snow to replenish the dugout, but be far enough away to not extract water during the summer or contaminate the water with leaves in the fall.
4. Since shelterbelts provide protection on both the windward and leeward side, they should be placed on all four sides of the farmyard if possible. If the prevailing winds are from the north or west, these sides of the yard should consist of 3 to 5 rows. The east and south sides usually need only 2 to 3 rows. The minimum distance between rows is 16 feet.
Generally the outside row is a hardy shrub, such as caragana or chokecherry. Progressively taller deciduous trees are planted toward the inside of the belt, in order to optimize the deflection of wind over the farmyard. Evergreens and ornamental species are usually planted on the innermost row to provide aesthetic value. Openings in the shelterbelt should be strategically placed to allow access to surrounding farmland and to minimize wind tunneling.
Rejuvenating an old existing farmyard belt is more challenging than planting a new farmyard belt because one is forced to work with the existing layout of belts and buildings. Many old belts did not provide large enough distances to roads and buildings. This can make the process frustrating and limit the options available.
Ideally it is best not to destroy all of the old belt until part of the new belt is established and providing protection to the farmyard. Sometimes there may not be any available space outside or inside the existing belt to plant new trees. In this case, some rows must be removed before planting can begin. Not all species need to be removed and replanted. For example, caraganas can be trimmed back to ground level during the dormant season, and new shoots will quickly establish from the old root systems.
When planting over an existing belt, a period of at least one year should be used to remove old trees and roots, and prepare the soil for planting. Proper soil preparation includes replenishing any topsoil lost during tree removal, cultivating to at least a 6 inch depth to ensure an adequate planting depth and developing a good weed control plan. Various weed control options are available, including cultivation, herbicides and mulches consisting of plastic or straw. The principle of proper soil preparation also applies to planting a new belt beside an existing belt. Drip or trickle irrigation techniques can be used to improve the rate of growth of belts.
Shelterbelts can be designed to complement existing tree bluffs, ponds, waterways and riparian areas. In addition, species can be selected for other uses such as fruit or wood production and wildlife habit.
For more information go to the Agroforestry Development Centre website. |
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